A couple of nights ago, Jill dropped me at Logan airport and I repeated the same journey I made a year ago: Qatar Airways to Doha, an eight hour layover in one of the nicest airport lounges on the planet, then another Qatar flight to Kathmandu. There was a great view of the Annapurna range out the window shortly before landing.
When I arrived in Kathmandu last year, my frame of reference compared it to a place I had experienced in the early 1980’s and 90’s, when I soaked up the Shangri-La vibe and used it as a base for outdoor adventures that became cherished life memories.
My return this year feels different. My frame of reference is strongly linked to last year, when I arrived in Kathmandu eagerly preparing to climb Everest, and then returned after almost two months, replaying in my mind an aborted summit attempt and a challenging descent through a blizzard. The post climb week I spent quarantined at the Yak and Yeti hotel, with the city in full Covid lockdown, was intense and full of reflection; one of those intersections of time and place that stay with you for a long while.
So when I arrived yesterday at Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan airport, I wasn’t thinking about how it looked when I first landed here in 1982. Then, I stood outside a small customs building on a grass-lined runway, savoring the mountain air and the sunlight filtering through the trees. Instead, as we left the crowded, sprawling airport yesterday and drove through chaotic streets full of cars and motorcycles, I was thinking back to last year’s arrival. We drove the exact same route to the hotel. The sights out the window were the same. It had the feeling of ritual. As I re-entered the Yak and Yeti, I felt like I was being teleported back twelve months to that same intense intersection of time and place.
It is good to be back. I continue to mourn the population growth, vehicular traffic, and air pollution that have turned what used to be an exotic valley town into a crowded Asian city. But Kathmandu remains a fascinating place, and the Nepali people remain astoundingly friendly and polite. I am also excited about what I am here to do, which includes more than just repeating last year’s climb.
A different approach
I am climbing Everest with a different team this year, and will explain more about that in a future post. I am also approaching base camp by a different route, accompanied by good friends Bob Burnham, Ann Burnham, and Brad Brown. Here is a photo of Bob, Ann, and I upon arrival at Kathmandu airport:
Brad had arrived a couple of days ahead of us. Here is photo of him taking the town by storm:
photo credit: Brad Brown
Our trek will take us through the relatively remote territory east of Everest to the base of Makalu, the fifth highest mountain in the world. Brad and Ann will then helicopter back to Kathmandu and fly home. Bob and I will continue over a series of high passes and drop down into the Everest region. The remoteness of the area requires us to be self sufficient, with porters assisting in carrying all the supplies and gear necessary for the three week journey. The high passes will involve some technical climbing at altitudes around 20,000 feet, as well as extended glacier travel. We will be supported by experienced Sherpa guides.
Here is a photo from Google Earth that provides an overview. The red line shows the standard trek route from Lukla to Everest base camp, through the heart of the Solu-Khumbu region. This is the approach I did last year, and the approach the rest of my Everest team will do this year. The blue line shows the route Bob, Ann, Brad, and I will follow through the Makalu-Barun region, starting from the village of Num in the lower right corner. (Num is not labeled. It is at the top of the squiggly yellow line, which is a dirt road built recently to facilitate construction of a dam on the Arun river.) Makalu base camp, where Ann and Brad will depart the trek, is located on a glacier near the “M” in Makalu. The village of Dingboche, where Bob and I will conclude our traverse of the high passes, is in the upper left, where the blue and red lines connect. I will meet my Everest team here, and then head north on the red line to Everest base camp. Bob will head south on the red line to Lukla, from where he will fly back to Kathmandu.
As mentioned in a previous post, the “Makalu Three Passes” trek has intrigued me since hearing about it over thirty years ago. When I decided to return to Everest, I liked the idea of injecting a new element of life experience into the equation. The area is far removed from the trekking mainstream, the terrain will be stunning, and the idea of climbing over high passes from one mountain region to another excites me. It will also be great to share the experience with friends. At the same time, I need to be mindful and conserve energy. It will be important to arrive at Everest base camp with mental and physical batteries fully charged.
The past day and a half have been filled with tactical details: obtaining stacks of rupee notes to pay the porters, submitting paperwork for permits, doing a final gear check, and handing off a large duffel of equipment that will be sent directly to Everest base camp to await my arrival. I am leaving a small duffel here at the hotel, with clean clothes and other items, for my return in a couple of months. As I packed it, I was thinking about how much will play out between now and then, and how many hopes and dreams are in the mix.
We fly tomorrow morning to a town named Tumlingtar, in the lowlands south of the Makalu region. From there we will hop in a jeep for a bumpy five hour ride up to Num, spend the night, and then start walking. The flights are notorious for weather-related issues, and the one to Tumlingtar was cancelled yesterday and today. We are hoping for better luck tomorrow, but will get there one way or the other.
In contrast to the Everest region, internet service in the Makalu-Barun is essentially non existent. The next time I post something will likely be from Dingboche, which Bob and I should reach around April 20. I should have lots to report.
Thanks for following along!
Have a blast Tom! Sounds like a very exciting addition this year…rooting for you!
K
Clear eyes, full hearts, can’t lose! Good luck, Tom!
All the best. So nice you can share it with lifelong friends and my best to Bob and Ann whom I first met in the far more hospitable Wasatch mountains! Good luck and safe travels to all.
Thrilled to “feel” your excitement, and many thanks for sharing with us all in such vivid and extraordinary prose! You’ll be in our constant thoughts. Be safe.
Tom –
Hals und Beinbruch for the trek & climb…
…and thank you bringing us along via your wonderful blog.
May the Gods be looking favorably upon your expedition!
Cheers, Martin
Enjoy the experience Tom. Good luck!
Lawrie
It seems I always audibly express “wow” when finished reading one of your posts.. Today was the same and Im also looking forward to future posts.. Your excitement for this adventure is infectious!
Best!
May the weather gods be with you. Db
Good luck, Tom. As ever, awe-inspiring. Best to Brad.
I am so excited to be with you again Tom. I hope you have your beacon with you for the ascent.
Thank you for sharing so eloquently. Can’t wait to hear from Dingboche
Tom Swift
Welcome back! As ever, this blog is required reading and eagerly awaiting the next update. Look forward to hearing about your continued adventures. Good luck!
Thank you for sharing your amazing journey, Tom!
We will be thinking of you.
Best wishes,
Zoe
Welcome back! Thrilled to follow along to it continued adventures and eagerly awaiting the next update. Good luck on the trek!
Take care of yourself–and Brad! Brad, I look forward to hearing all about it.
Enjoy the journey! Looking forward to your April 20th (ish) report…
Always love reading your posts! We can feel your excitement and anticipation. Eagerly awaiting your next one from Dingboche.
You can always feel the excitement of each of your blog posts, Tom. Enjoy, stay safe, and can’t wait for the next edition!
Fun read, as always. Good luck.
Dontcha just love the names of the towns? I could say Dingboche all day long.
… or till the yaks come home…
Wow, hard to believe another year has passed and you are hitting the trail again. For one whose current zenith of adventure is ebiking to the grocery store, your plan is unbelievably exciting. Have a great hike!
And so it begins! Very exciting, Tom! Wishing you all the best. And take care of my man! 🙂
Delighted to be along for the second ride, Tom. Good luck on the Three Passes and we’ll look forward to hearing from you on the other end!
Peter
Simply excited to follow along. You go, Tom! Cheering for you all the way.
I will get back to my powepoint. :). Thought you might enjoy that blast back to your distant past.
Safe travels Tom! The excitement is palpable and we look forward to keeping up with you all along the way. Enjoy the new route! Lia and Andy
I feel as if I too have returned to Kathmandu, full of excitement and anticipation! Thanks for sharing! Be safe!
Tim
And so it begins. Safe and wonderous travels to you and your friends, Tom.
Best of luck, Tom. Thank you so much for taking those at home along on your journey.
Soo and Sam Barnard
Wings of good fortune wished upon you from the Birds. Best to “Butchie” and Ann. Great stuff Frenchie. Thanks for sharing. G & J
Cec and I will be thinking about you, Tom! And we can’t wait to hear about your adventures! Godspeed!
New paths, and passes. So exciting to follow along in spirit.
An incredible journey which I look forward to following. And an incredible friendship of 50 years of pursuing your shared passions with Bob. Safe and healthy travels!
Very exciting, Tom!! We’re all behind you!!
Best of luck and safe travels Frenchy………..looking forward to reading your blogs to my 8yr old daughter again and feeling like we are right there with you!
Wow, this is so exciting. Wishing you fair weather and to be safe. Enjoy and can not wait for the next post. Cheers. Bix
Tom, safe journey! the new hiking section sounds amazing – so psyched for you and your friends, and grateful that you allow us to follow along.
Praying for your safety in flight and on the ground, and favorable weather throughout. I’m also praying for Jill.
Go git ‘em! Stor, stor kram!
Godspeed Thomas…you know they say that curdled goat’s milk is even better on one’s morning oatmeal than Drambuie… -ghc-
I’m excited for your return! My palms are getting a little sweaty with anticipation of the great adventure I’m going to be reading about in the coming weeks. Take care!
With you all the way, bud–vicariously! BTW, love the photo of Annapurna. Glad to see what appears to be abundant snow on the peaks. Wishing you great weather and good fortune. XOXO
Wishing you all the weather windows you need for a successful summit. Great fun to share the adventure with you, thank you,
all the best, safe journey.
Happy Trails; Looking forward to reading about the new trek.
As Brad’s aunt (Bob Brown’s sister), I’m thrilled to be included in the account of this journey. Be safe!
Love the start to this journey with a view from seat 3A. The contrast of viewing the mountains from first class, literally, and then again in three weeks after trecking through the foothills is all part of why this story is so enthralling.
Go get ‘em. Hope you get the weather window this year – can’t wait to hear about it – please say hi to Miyolangsangma !
Trey and I are wishing you the absolute best for an amazing journey and return home. As usual, your spirited and colorful prose transports us to be right there with you. Thank you and Onward!
Just super Tom. Wishing all of you the very best. Look forward to hearing about your adventures!
I will hang my own version of a prayer flag for a safe and exhilarating journey. May the winds favor you, the sun shine on your path and your fellow travelers bond with laughter and love.
Tom, looking forward to following the adventure, safe travels to you, Brad and the team!
Excelsior!
Tom, love to map tracking the direction you are coming in on. Can’t wait to get the recap of how it goes so I can get there one day and retrace your footsteps. Can’t wait for your next post. On pins and needles..
Safe travels, have a blast Tom French! ✌️🙏
I knew Dingboche rang a bell in my head so I just pulled out the photo album from my 1992 trek around the Everest region and found the photos of Dingboche where we stopped after our ascent up Kala Patthar for views of Everest. I haven’t looked at those photos in ages! Enjoy every minute of your trek with friends to Makalu. I too can’t wait to read about it when you arrive in Dingboche and if you happen to get any photos of Dingboche, I would love to see what it looks like today! Be well and safe Tom!
All the best Tom. Such an amazing journey. Can’t wait to hear the next update.
Rob
Loved seeing the route mapped out, very exciting – this new route! Stay safe and look forward to the next post
Tom, love the new approach. My extended family appreciates being included, with brother Dyk pointing out that Bob is yet another great xc skier, whose son Jimmy is the best of all worlds, a Batesie who enjoys geology.
Sounds like a great trek! What an amazing adventure! Hope it goes well and that you are energized by the Makalu Three Passes. Looking forward to reading your next blogs.
So enthused for you and inspired. Sending my best wishes for great conditions.
– Marc