I arrived in Kathmandu three days ago. It is a different place than when I was first here in 1982; much more of an “Asian city” than the “medieval valley town” it felt like then. But it remains fascinating and unique, and it is exhilarating to be back. Here is the sign that greeted me as I pulled into the hotel courtyard:
What I notice most is the frenetic traffic, crowds, and poor air quality; all born out of decades of population influx and economic growth. In 1982, Kathmandu was a relaxing place to be. We rode bikes everywhere, carried kayaks through the streets to catch buses to various rivers, and sat outdoors for hours reading books and writing letters. There is no way I would do any of that today. Crossing streets is more nerve wracking than what crossing crevasses in the Khumbu Icefall will be, (I am serious). The day I arrived, the schools had just been closed for four days due to unusually dangerous levels of air pollution. While the official air quality has since improved from “very unhealthy “ to just “unhealthy”, it gives me new reasons to be grateful for my stash of KN- 95 masks.
That all said, I have enjoyed these days in Kathmandu. The Nepali people remain invariably gracious and friendly. We are staying at the Yak and Yeti hotel, which is somewhat of institution. It is built around an old palace and has peaceful gardens in the back. I am shaking off jet lag and sleeping progressively better every night. Each morning at 6:30 sharp, I am woken up by the smell of delicious coffee brewing in the hotel restaurant. A great way to start the day. In the evening, I have enjoyed sipping a local beer in the hotel restaurant:
Over the last few days, our team of seven climbers has assembled, met with our guides, gone through exhaustive gear checks, obtained our climbing permit at the ministry, and attended to last minute details. The day we arrived, the Nepalese authorities changed the week long quarantine requirement so that we can now leave Kathmandu as soon as we clear a second Covid test. We have done that, and will fly to the village of Lukla tomorrow morning to begin our trek to basecamp.
The early Everest expeditions started their walk to base camp from Kathmandu itself. It took them several weeks to get to where they could even see the mountain. These days, a road can get you about a fifth of the way there. Most climbers and trekkers, however, fly into a small airstrip in Lukla. Construction of this airstrip was spearheaded by Sir Edmund Hillary in the 1960’s as a way to bring medical and commercial progress to the region. With steep canyon walls, a short runway carved out of the hillside, and variable mountain weather, landing there is legendary for its white knuckle moments. If you want to see more, just Google “landing in Lukla”.
The trek to Everest base camp is a classic. I am guessing many of you have either done it yourselves or know people who have. It goes through the heart of the Solu-Khumbu region, home to the Sherpa people, climbing up and down ridgelines while passing though mountain villages accessible only on foot. The higher you get, the more you are surrounded by breathtakingly beautiful mountain peaks. Jill and I did it in 1990, and I am really looking forward to doing it again.
In many ways, an Everest expedition is two distinct experiences: the trek to base camp, and then the actual climbing. With the trek rising from 8,500 feet to an elevation of 17,500 feet, it is important to break it into stages and take rest days along the way to ease into the altitude. We will do this over nine days. After reaching base camp , the tone will shift and the real climbing will begin, with our team spending six or more weeks working our way up the actual mountain. Plenty of time ahead to explain and describe all of that.
For now, I am focused on getting ready for the trek while enjoying hanging out at the Yak and Yeti. Yesterday, I had an experience that set our expedition off on a great foot. A friend who has close ties to a Buddhist monastery in Kathmandu had kindly arranged for the monks there to bless our expedition. Then the quarantine rules changed, shortening our time in Kathmandu and making it impossible for us to take advantage of this wonderful opportunity. I needed to get in touch with the monastery.
I have never spoken with an actual lama before, let alone calling one on a cell phone, but that is what I did. I got through after a couple of tries and Lama Lobsang answered. I explained our situation, apologized for the change in our schedule, and thanked him profusely. His gentleness and kindness was striking, even over the phone.
Toward the end of the day, the hotel desk called to tell me a package had arrived. When I picked it up, I found protection cords for each of our expedition members, blessed by the lama, with a handwritten note conveying the best wishes of Trinlay Tulku Ringpoche and the monks of the Sharminub monastery. Here is a photo of the cords:
So we are blessed, on so many dimensions, and head off to the Solo-Khumbu tomorrow. There are no roads up there, but a number of the villages have rudimentary WiFi. I should be able to post at least once from the trek.
Continued thanks for following along, and Namaste!
thanks Tom,
i will read your posts as they arrive and remember Fred’s walk to 19,000 feet on Pumori more than 55 years ago.
Susan
T-hawk
Finally something worth reading in the morning. Keep em coming.
Flambé
Thanks for this wonderful description of current day Kathmandu. Your enthusiasm and appreciation resounds in this post! Namaste!
What a precious gift 🙏
Tom, so thrilled to be able to follow this journey through your words. Love, support, and safety, and satisfaction to you and your fellow trekkers.
Tom, amazing! Enjoy every minute. I’m going to hunt down some Everest beer in MA…
Savor the moments…and keep the blogs coming!
If you can stick the landing in Lukla, then the climb should be no problem.
Makes the landing in St. Barth’s look like a cake walk!
Tom, I enjoy your posts very much. Keep them coming. Good luck.
Scott
A Medieval mountain village with some Swiss accents. I don’t think there were cars there in 1972:). I am so looking forward to reading about all the details, the trek, the climb, the spirits. It’s time to reinstate Everest to the wonder it is, with reverence.
Soo and I on the edges of our collective seats. Keep the stream coming, keep the path ahead a safe and magical life experience and congratulations on on your goals in the process of being achieved.
Thank you so much Tom for living this adventure on behalf of so many of us! Your blogs bring me back to my time in Kathmandu in 1994 and the trek around Anapurna. It has been a highlight of my life. I was blown away by the gentle grace of the Nepali people and the Tibetans I met up in the Mustang valley. And nature is just plainly magic. Enjoy every step! (And I will join Kevin for that Everest beer, creating our own version of the ascent).
Just watched the landing into Lukla……….so cool. Thanks for keeping us up Frenchy!
Already a magical journey. Thanks for sharing it with us
Wow, Lama’s blessing protection cords, Everest Beer, the Yak and Yeti, Lukla landing, Lama Lobsang wisdom on a cell phone, gear up T-Hawk you’re on a roll. Great adventure, thanks for sharing!
You can also google “top 10 most dangerous airports in the world” as well to find Lukla.
Terrific stuff T.
So great to hear, stay safe!
Go Tom! Thank you for bringing us along on your journey.
Onward and upward…Godspeed TF…
-ghc-
Hi Tom,
So happy to see this post. We connected a year ago through Rob Dickey. And, also Amy Price is a mutual friend of ours.
Wishing you a wonderful journey.
Best,
Denise Aronson
This continues to be a thrilling and educational blog! Keep it coming, and best of luck with your continued “blessed” journey. Let us know about some of the personalities on your team.
We’ve flown into old Hong Kong, Bhutan, telluride and st barts, but lukla looks pretty exciting by comparison!
French, Everest is one thing and flying into Lukla another but, seriously, talking to Lama Lobsang on a cell, receiving his blessings AND the expedition cords AND best wishes from Trinlay Tulku Rinpoche and the monks WHAT!?! Epic! 👍 🤩
Basecamp ‘trek’ sounds cool too! 😉
Namaste,
Kataisto🙏✌️
I can almost hear Cat Stephens playing “Katmandu” in the lobby of the Yak & Yeti…and the Lama’s blessing on your iPhone.
Tom, this is thrilling stuff. Dick and I are following avidly. This will be the most amazing armchair traveling we’ve ever done by far.
With you in spirit!
Millie and Dick
Bless you Tom! Have a good trip.
As always, a treat to read your updates! The story of calling the lama on his cell and receiving the protection cords is wonderful. Moor and mountain, all the way! Love, the Prices
We add our prayers to the blessings of the llama, and will hold you in The light during your entire adventure. All the best. God Speed!
Gratuitous reminder to keep your mindfulness at 100% – and to observe caution. We are with you.
Frenchie – Wonderful start to your journey – best of luck on your trek to Base Camp.
Tom,
It’s so exciting to follow you and for bringing us along for the journey with your very descriptive writing. Looking forward to experiencing this with you.
Good luck on your adventure.
Bix
When I read about your blessing being cancelled, I knew they would still come to you. You are all blessed, how special! 1982 was the way I always will remember Nepal. In 2000 when I returned to Kanchenjunga I was shocked as well. We were so lucky to experience it then. Fair winds dear friend. namaste.