Yesterday, the situation was almost too good to be true. We were looking at a five day weather window between the 10th-15th, and we were ready to launch our summit push. All we needed was for the rope fixing team to push the ropes all the way to the summit, at which point we would start heading up. While it will take three to four days to get from base camp to Camp Four, Phil and Pasang Ongchu were united in the opinion that we shouldn’t leave base camp until we are 100% sure the ropes are fully in.
As background for some of you, fixed ropes are sets of lines attached to the mountain by various screws and anchors. Climbers clip into them with carabiners and other devices. This is what prevents you from sliding thousands of feet down the mountain to pretty certain death if you slip and fall up high. Every year a team of Sherpas is designated to fix the ropes, and a portion of everyone’s climbing permit fees compensates them for their efforts. The higher they get on the mountain, the more they need good weather to allow them to approach the summit. Once the ropes are in all the way, summit attempts by all the climbers on the mountain can begin.
As of yesterday, we were eager to get going and mildly frustrated that the fixed lines weren’t yet in to the summit, but we knew we had a large weather window on the back end. Our departure date was simply a matter of days.
Things are always changing in the mountains. This morning, when I rolled out of my sleeping bag and headed to the dining tent for my first cup of coffee, Phil greeted me with a cheerful: “Good morning, I have some f_cking bad news for you!”
Cyclones were the story of my life last year, and now there is another one forming in the Bay of Bengal. While, just like New England hurricanes, the actual track is constantly getting updated, the current forecasts call for it hitting the mountain on the 13th or 14th, potentially with very heavy snow that could shut the climbing down for some time. If we want to summit before it hits, we have to leave now and roll the dice that the ropes are fixed to the summit by the time we get there.
So that is what we are doing. We will leave tonight at 12:30am, (May 8, Nepal time), targeting a summit on May 11. As usual, things can change, but that is the plan. As the rope fixing situation and weather forecasts become clearer, we have the option to hold up at Camp Two if need be.
Phil will stay at base camp, constantly monitoring the weather forecasts and communicating updates by radio. Teemu and I will head up with the Sherpa team, in whom I have total confidence. These guys are rock stars. Here is a photo of them. From left to right: Kami Neru (nicknamed “Mad Dog”), Pasang Ongchu (Sirdar, and my climbing partner), Sonam (who will climb along with Pasang Ongchu and me on summit night), Pasang Nima, and Da Kipa:
It is impossible to overstate the respect I have for these guys. Their combination of physical strength, climbing prowess, dedication, and good humor is stunning. It is also the bedrock of our expedition.
One issue with our plan is that every other team on the mountain sees the same forecasts and is in the same situation. Those who are ready to launch a summit push will now be pressured to do so at the same time. This will no doubt increase the number of teams trying for the summit on May 11 and 12. While the infamous photo of lines on the summit ridge, which went viral several years ago, is a worst case scenario that generally misrepresents reality, bottlenecks on the narrow ridges high on the mountain are a real concern.
Given this situation, we may well end up trying to arrive at the summit between midnight and dawn, to get up and down off the knife edge ridges before others arrive. This will be Pasang Ongchu’s call, based on how he assesses the situation when we get to Camp Four.
While I liked much better the situation we were dealing with yesterday, I still like our plan and have confidence in it. Safety will always be our overriding priority, and – as last year – we are fully prepared to turn around or otherwise alter course as needed. And the weather forecast may well evolve further. Who knows how exactly the darn cyclone will end up tracking. After two direct hits last year, I feel like I am owed one that veers off course.
In the event the forecast gets worse and we can’t try for the summit, we will descend to base camp, regroup, and hopefully take another shot at it later in the month.
With luck, the base camp internet will allow me to get this out before we leave tonight. Once we get to Camp Four, I will be in touch with Jill via my satellite texting device and she will email out an update on our situation and timing.
Here are two photos I took this morning, right after Phil gave me the cyclone news and right before I filled my mug with coffee. The sun was breaking through the morning mist and the peaks surrounding base camp were increasingly revealed. It was a beautiful sight.
Ever upward. Namaste!
Go get it Tom. I know you’re mentally set and physically able to do this.
Sounds like a plan. Praying the weather gods cooperate. Sounds like you have a fabulous group of sherpas heading up with you guys.
Cheering you on, Tom, from the foothills of the whites!
Our hearts climb with you!
Go Tom! Saying a prayer that this is your window!
Go Tom!
We are with you every step of the way
Frenchie…Sending positive thoughts for a safe climb and good weather from sea level base camp Edgartown.
Collectively we are willing the cyclone to change direction allowing a safe summit! Thanks for keeping us updated
Sending good cheer, best wishes and lots of energy for a safe and successful climb!
Go for it Tom! May the climbing Gods be with you!👍👍👍
Praying with all my heart that you get your summit window, Tom! And that you and your team are all safe. Much love!
Wow! So much change in just a couple days. The mountains! As always, your writing is riveting, Tom. Very excited for your summit push and can’t wait to watch you and hear all about it when you are back at Base Camp. Good luck, stay safe and enjoy!
Good luck Tom. This will be your year!
My Windy forecast has the cyclone staying in the Bay, drifting slowly westward as it slowly peters out. Fingers crossed!
Fingers crossed for all, and be safe. Comforting knowing that you guys are with a word class team of experts. Namaste!
Wishing you calm winds and clear skies, Tom! Thinking about you, keep up the strong effort!
You probably have already left for the Icefall so nothing to say but we are pulling for you big time! And will wait to hear…
My money is on you and Sirdar to outmaneuver the cyclones and bottlenecks.
Sending all of our most positive vibes to you! You and the team are strong, prepared and ready for whatever lies ahead! Godspeed!
Ever upward.
Best of luck Frenchie………be safe!!!
Thoughts and prayers…
🤞🙏😘
F__ing cyclones!! Sending my best vibes to veer them away. All seemed to be lining up well, so I’m hoping the lines are up (in sherpas we trust!) and the weather window holds. Can’t wait for Jill’s update (and later yours). Good luck!
Good luck Tom. I’m blowing a puff of air to help send the cyclone away from you. You know, like the butterfly’s wing thing ….
Your homies in Westport and So Dartmouth are looking forward to your riveting tales as we sip
a toast to a successful summit overlooking the shores of Mishaum and points outward bound. With caution and Godspeed.
Sam and Soo
Cheering you on Tom!!
Cheering you on Tom!! Go get it
You got this Tom! Prayers and deep respect to all! 🙏✌️
Lord grant you the safe window. Truly you do deserve one that “veers off course.” What a team you have! Adapt and overcome! Lycka till, stora kramar!!
Tom,
Be safe, be smart, strategize, you’re owed a cyclone miss, wishing you a pristine weather window.
Game time! Game faces on and go get it Tom! Thoughts and prayers for you and the team. Can’t wait to watch that little dot on the Garmin app get to the top AND safely back down again!
Wishing you clear skies, modest winds and no obstacles other then the natural kind…
Tom,
Thanks for the terrific update. We’re wishing you fair weather and minimal traffic. Enjoy the journey.
Morty
Tom,
May the cyclone veer away from your route! You have a great team and I hope your plan reaches its fruition. Best of luck and stay safe!
Martha
Hoping the rope logistics fall into place and the weather cooperates. Wishing you and everyone on the mountain a success and more importantly, a safe return.
Best of luck Tom; hopefully the ropes are now set & that cyclone heads in a different direction. Plant that flag on top! Go get ‘em Moor & Mountain!!
Whitt & Susie
Sending safe vibes and good luck. May the weather gods be with you. Can’t wait to hear how things go and will be holding my breath for you and your entire team.
We are holding onto every hope with you! Godspeed.
Go Tom!!
Tom — you made it! You are the Champion, my friend!!
Frenchie – Heard the great news of your successful summit. Hurrah! Very proud of you TF!! And thrilled for you!
Best,
Hunthaus5