Starting our summit push

We are leaving tomorrow night on our summit push.
It has been over a week since we returned to base camp from our second rotation, and – as described in my last post- we have been waiting for an ideal weather window. Unfortunately, recent weather trends have complicated the summit window picture, but we will give it our best shot.

The original May 19-21 window that a number of teams had been targeting, (and that we were consciously sitting out), has gotten compressed and pushed a couple of days later by remnants of a cyclone that moved up from the Bay of Bengal. All the teams that headed up the mountain this past weekend in anticipation of that first window have been dug in at Camp 2 for the past five days riding out the bad weather. It looks like a brief, and somewhat windy, window will open around May 22, and we expect a number of the teams already up there to go for the summit then.

Meanwhile, the weather forecast for the last week of May, the period that we have been eying for our summit attempt, remains unclear. It looks like a second window may emerge around May 25-27. If it does, that will likely be our best shot. If it doesn’t, we may be out of luck. The situation is complicated by the fact that, if you can believe it, a second cyclone is now forming in the Bay of Bengal. Our weather forecaster believes this cyclone will track toward Bangladesh and not impact Everest, but some other forecasters aren’t so sure.

This may end up being another one of those years when the mountain offers up relatively few total summit days. It could end up being as few as three or four, with two having already happened earlier this month. Or, if the May 25-27 window comes through, it may end up being as many as six or seven.

Our main goal now is simply to get a shot at the summit before the season shuts down. We will head to Camp 2, establish ourselves there, and hope that we get a decent window for a summit attempt somewhere in the May 25-30 timeframe.

As a reminder, here is a map of our route and the various camps that appeared in an earlier post, courtesy of Alan Arnette and his website alanarnette.com:

We will leave basecamp at midnight and climb through the Icefall, past Camp 1, and up the Western Cym to Camp 2. This will likely take us 10-12 hours. At Camp 2, we will spend at least one full rest day, and potentially more depending on the weather outlook. We will then move to Camp 3 and spend the night, and the next day move up to Camp 4 at the South Col. At Camp 4 we will spend somewhere between six to thirty hours resting, (again, depending on the weather outlook). Assuming all systems are go, we will then head for the summit.

Of note, starting at Camp 3, we will be climbing and sleeping on bottled oxygen.

Assuming the weather allows us to launch a summit bid, we will likely leave Camp 4 sometime between 9:00pm -midnight and climb through the night, hoping to arrive at the summit early in the morning. We will then descend back to Camp 4, and spend the night there. The next day, we will descend to Camp 2, and then the following day descend back to basecamp.

Lots of moving parts depending on how the weather evolves, but that is the general plan. I think it is greater than 50 percent likely we end up getting some kind of shot at the summit, although it may not be in the ideal weather or crowd conditions we had been hoping for. Rest assured: we will only go for the summit if we feel the conditions on both dimensions are safe, (as safe as they can be up there).

For those of you who have been doing the math, this all suggests that we will return to basecamp, one way or the other, sometime between May 27-June 1.

SOME COMMUNICATION LOGISTICS

I will of course post an update when we return to basecamp.

Meanwhile, I will be carrying a small satellite tracking device that allows me to send short messages to my family. If and when we lock in on a summit attempt, Jill has graciously offered to email this readership list with an update on that timing.

If we do end up going for the summit, I will carry my satellite tracking device. For those of you who are up for it, (I don’t expect there to be many, but I know there are a few), you can track my progress real time on summit night/day at: https://share.garmin.com/SUO62

If you try to track me and the signal isn’t working, don’t worry. Batteries can easily freeze up there.

Also, for anyone interested in additional information while we are above base camp, our Expedition Leader, Ben Jones, will be posting brief updates via satellite, roughly daily, at: https://www.alpineascents.com/climbs/mount-everest/cybercasts/

On summit night/day, Ben will also radio periodic updates to Lakpa Rita down at basecamp , who will post them on this same link.

ADDITIONAL THOUGHTS

Despite the somewhat challenging weather outlook, the team and I remain in high spirits. Being at the mercy of Mother Nature and the weather gods is a core component of mountaineering. Whether or not we ultimately get to the summit, we feel great about how we have approached climbing this mountain.

While I intensely hope things break our way and we get to stand on the top of the world, I will be at peace if this ends up not happening. My lifelong dream of climbing Everest has on many dimensions already been fulfilled, and will be fulfilled even more as we head up the mountain on our final rotation.

As described in an earlier post, I currently have around my neck: 1) the protection cord blessed by the monks of Sharminub monastery in Kathmandu, 2) the protection cord blessed by the lama of Pangboche, 3) the protection cord given to us by the mother and son at the tea house in Namche, and 4) my wedding ring.

Yesterday, Lakpa Rita walked into our dining tent and tied an additional protection cord around each of our necks. In his typical, understated manner, he didn’t go into a lot of detail on where they came from, but Ben later explained. Apparently, Lakpa’s wife organized, (and paid for), another puja ceremony for our expedition down in Namche. She was mindful that this has been a particularly challenging season, including the accident our Sherpas were involved in at the bottom of the Lhotse face, the portion of the icefall collapsing on Bob and Ang Nuru, and the ongoing complications of dealing with Covid. The protection cords were then carried up the valley to basecamp by a porter. So now I have an additional cord around my neck.

When we leave basecamp tomorrow night to head into the icefall, we will – as always when we are heading up the mountain- make a counter clockwise circuit around the puja alter in our camp that the Sherpas constructed, and throw handfuls of rice on it. Also, as always when anyone on our expedition heads up the mountain, our Sherpas will be burning juniper in the alter.

So we are blessed.

Off we go. Ever Upward!

p.s. I have promised Jill I will shave before I get home.

66 thoughts on “Starting our summit push”

  1. Good luck. Please know you wear a virtual protection cord from all your blog readers! I look forward to your next post on June 1!
    Godspeed.
    LFPG

  2. Go Tom! May the weather go your way. Regardless, what a journey you have had and thank you again for sharing it so vividly with all of us.

  3. We are with you every step, Tom!
    Thanks for the Garmin and Alpine Ascents links.

  5. Tom,

    Thanks for another terrific update. The photo confirms what I have suspected for years, you have always been a closet hippy. Hunts is will be disappointed, but Stretch will be thrilled. In addition to the spiritual support you have there on the mountain, you have friends, colleagues and admirers who are sending you positive thoughts for the weather window.
    Best wishes, Morty

  6. Climb safe. I cannot help but think of your attempt in the 1990s when you were caught on another mountain with bad weather and you then (as we hope you’ll do this time) made the decisions to keep safe- please do so!! What a story you have shared with us.

  7. After all this ….. it’s in the lap of the gods…. nature is in charge.

  9. Lots of good fortune and as safe a set of conditions as possible. We will track your movements so thank you for the additional links. Be well…sending love, Chris & Harriet

  10. I am so excited for you. I am so impressed with your preparation and analysis and charmed by your talismans you are taking to the summit. You are stretching our COVID world to the top of the earth!

  11. Exhilarated that this journey in and of itself represents a fulfillment of your dreams. May the weather gods be on your side! Will be thinking of you and the whole team and sending as many prayers and good vibes as I can. I love LFPG’s comment that you have a virtual protection cord from this group!

  13. We’re thinking of you! So happy that it’s been a once-in-a-lifetime experience already. Much love and we will be tracking you as you ascend. Can’t wait to read more of your story.

    Nan

  17. As I head over for a little meditation of my own on the Slocum River, I will ask the sea gods to join in all the good ju ju coming your way. We love your chances……….you’ve done everything right and everything in your power for success. What company you do keep.

    Best,

    Sam and Soo

  18. WOW! What an update! Possible third half gig as an adventure writer, Tom? Thank you for your riveting update and good luck to you and the team. We will be with you every step of the way! And can’t wait to hear about the summit! And to learn that you are on your way down! Sarah

  19. Climb safe, Tom! Enjoy the journey and persist through the painful steps – I’m sure it will be worth it. Will be keeping fingers crossed for an extended weather window for you all still on the mountain. I’ve so enjoyed reading about your trip, with awe at all you’ve accomplished so far. All the best from a long ago McK colleague.

  20. Good luck Tom. I am thinking of you every day and sending positive vibes and best of lucks your way. Your Mom is looking down on you being immensely proud and telling you, Tom you got this. Looking forward to meeting up with you somewhere in Buzzards Bay this summer to share stories of adventure. You are my hero. Pease and Godspeed.

  21. Sending prayers to the weather Gods to protect you and give you the window you need to attempt the summit.

  22. Tom-
    Super update.

    We will follow your ascent whatever time that may be.

    You look awesome, spiritually brimming over and it your ‘perfect’ place/peace of mind.

    Re the beard I would suggest you keep it going for a while, as a mirror reminder of this more than epic adventure.

    The mirror reflection will ‘take you home to ‘your’ Everest.

    As we in the ‘spirit-hood’ would say’ “Namaste & keep your cords close to your mountain-man heart”

    We are with you every step of the way, whichever way you end up going🌈💪.

    Huge love, respect & excitement 24/7💥

  23. We are all with you in spirit, Tom! Every step of the way.
    Here’s to cooperation from Mother Nature!

  24. Exciting and inspiring to accompany the journey from afar… go for it, and be safe! Will be watching the links and thinking of you.

  25. Climb on! You and your team are G8ter 2gether! Wishing you the very best!!

  26. Don’t know when you will read this – but I am proud of you. Not just for your efforts in this attempt, but by your calm demeanor throughout. God bless – and ever upward, Frenchie

    1. O Brave One,
      Your journey is already a success as far as I’m concerned.
      Good luck and Godspeed.
      Our junipers are burning.

  27. So awesomely well done already French!

    All good vibes and positive energy to you and your team! Dang exciting!

    Go French and Teamies Go!!!!

    Namaste! 👍✌️🏔 🙏

  28. Thanks for the links. You’ve made us all proud, Tom. Will join in sending prayers for safety – and a proper weather window! Your team is incredibly well prepared and will excel together. God bless.

  29. My favorite part of this post: “…I will be at peace if this ends up not happening.” I fervently hope that you get your window and make it safely to the top and back however being at peace with a different outcome may actually be harder. You and your team will be in my thoughts.

  30. Best of luck reaching the summit! I’ll be following with my heart in my mouth. To be thwarted by a cyclone would be disappointing, but, as you say, it’s the journey that counts and you’ve already experienced so much that will enrich your life forever. Stay safe!

  31. Whether or not you “summit,” you’ve already achieved what you set out to accomplish, and all of us are in awe. Godspeed Cousin! XOXO

  32. Tom,

    We all hope intensely that things break your way and you get to stand on the top of the world. Please remember your thoughts from 17,500′ about being at peace if you get turned around. Clear thinking will be at a premium at 26,300′ and above, and remembering those thoughts may be helpful.

    That said, I like your chances and will be talking to my sea-level gods on your behalf while you ascend.

    See you soon

  33. Your spirit and your discipline continue to inspire…mountains, oceans and the vagaries of weather always demand respect…we are all exceedingly proud to be part of your quest and your world…Godspeed TF…

  34. I’m glad you are counting the weather watch, expeditions and treks as the goal of the journey rather than a particular geographic point, which happens to be at 29,000 feet. Of course, I hope the crowds and weather gods and blessings get you to that spot, but I’m proud of you and excited for you either way. But oh no, not the razor! I hope that gets lost at base camp!
    PS–thanks for the other links!

  35. Brilliant update. Thank you. Fingers crossed that you achieve 100% of your dream. Toes crossed for a safe return regardless of how the climbing windows evolve. Good luck.

  36. This is better than anything I have watched on TV during all of quarantine! Rooting for you!!!

  37. Love that this group is sending a virtual protection cord — I am all in on sending positive thoughts! Stay safe and keep enjoying the journey — you are an inspiration. We are all in awe of your strength and positivity. Thanks for letting us share in your adventure!
    Lisa
    P.S. You have this! As your good friend Jimmy says, “Take it all in… it’s as big as it seems. Count all your blessings. Remember your dreams.” He’d love the beard too! Godspeed, my friend.

  38. While not at all surprising, I admire your positivity…keep it up!! As you said, you’ve already achieved so much, for which you should be very proud. May the weather gods be with you, and go get’em!! Will be following from the safety of GPS!! 😉

    P.S. I’m guessing that “the boss” has gotten used to the mountaineer look!!

  39. We are all so excited for you! Love the thought of a virtual protection cord being sent to you by everyone! Your spirit, discipline, and positive attitude are an inspiration Tom. Sending you all our energy and best wishes for a successful summit and safe return!
    P.S. Sally loves the beard (you studly mountain man!)
    Martin & Sally

  40. Tom, this blog has added much excitement for this group in the last year and we are all fist pumping in the air, hands clasped in prayer and ready to give you a huge hug when you return in June. Thanks for the thoughtful posts.

  42. We are thinking of you Tom and wishing that every piece of luck falls your way.
    See you on the road very soon and can’t wait to hear your tales!
    The Pingeons

  43. You’ve accomplished so much already! Thank you for the fascinating updates. Climb High, Climb Far, Your Aim the Sky, Your Goal the Star!

  44. Tom,
    It is good fortune, planning and mindfulness that have brought you this far/this close. With just a little help from Mother Nature . . .

    Be safe and well!

  45. Dear Tom, May nice weather welcome you at the summit. Safe climbing. Psyched for your next posts on the way down. Best, Seth

  46. You need some help from the weather, but what an experience you have already had! Good luck, Tom. We will all be following you. It sounds as though you have all the protection you could possibly need. I keep hearing the words that come after “moor and mountain”.

  48. Trey and I wish you and your team fair weather and safe passage to the summit and back.

  49. I think you have the makings of a great novel here. Climbing Everest is a feat in itself, but doing so through COVID and multiple typhoons in the region is even more impressive. So enjoying your posts. We are all with you in spirit here in the Northwest. Blessings from all of us as you push to the summit.

  50. Do it Frenchie! And very best of luck up there on the final push. Many thoughts and prayers heading your way for you and your full team.

  51. Sensible, prepared, and respectful. Good on you, Tom. Godspeed and may the winds ever be in your favor. Ever(est) upward!

  52. Good luck and stay safe Tom! Hoping the weather works out in your favor, and can’t wait to hear about the experience.

    Franklin

  54. Good luck Tom, our family will all be following you (love the GPS view). Stay safe!

  55. Thanks for letting us tag along on your adventure Tom!! Can’t wait to read your next installment.

  56. Add us to your spirit circle, Tom, as we all cheer you on. George and I are thinking of you every day as you traverse afar! Love and godspeed from the Favs.

  57. Add us to your spirit circle, Tom. George and I are thinking of you every day. Godspeed as you traverse afar and best wishes from the Favs!

  58. God Speed. and Safe Journey. This is truly amazing. All the best to you and the entire team. Come down safe and sound…. all of you.

  61. Tom, this is a remarkable post. As I have been thinking of you and your conquest these past few weeks, I began reading a book I found in my 6th grade ELA class at Doherty, “Within Reach, My Everest Story” by the 15 year old Mark Pfetzer and couldn’t put it down. Best of luck Tom, an incredible feat already!

  62. Keep on keeping on, TF! One foot in front of the other…up and up and up! Love your posts and thanks for Ben’s link and the GPS link. Will be watching ‘live’ once I see movement.
    Safe travels and may the Weather Gods bestow upon you 36 hours of LOVE!
    Namaste!
    -HTR

  64. Tracking every day and, at this point, knowing you may start for the summit in a few hours, more frequently. Sharing your updates with Chris and the boys at dinner each night. Wishing you good fortune weather -wise , physically, psychically—and to your team. Love, Harriet& Chris

  65. This has been an amazing virtual journey. I have never in my life known anyone to climb Everest. Thank you for allowing me to travel along with you.

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