Jill and I have been in Vermont for over two months. I have been training hard, searching for cross country ski races that aren’t cancelled due to Covid, and crossing my fingers that the spring Everest climbing season happens. On a number of dimensions, things are starting to resolve themselves.
Cross country skiing
Vermont has had a snowy winter and the skiing has been amazing. Pretty much every day, I head into beautiful countryside: cruising for hours over ridgelines and down valleys, or hammering repeat hill climbs that leave me gasping over my poles. Here is a photo taken during a recent outing.
Beyond the routine aspects of training and racing, cross country skiing has always been a form of meditating. While it is fun to head out with friends, I enjoy gliding along by myself: settling into a rhythm, embracing my surroundings, and being alone with my thoughts. It is a zone I cherish, one that I have been blessed to inhabit on a daily basis this winter.
With all of the big races cancelled, including the World Masters Championships that I had been targeting, this year’s season has assumed a different form. Last month, I drove to Jackson NH to compete in a “virtual” race. People timed themselves on a specified course over a week, and results were then posted on line. The drive alone, through northern Vermont and New Hampshire on a bluebird day, was worth the whole trip. Here is the view of the Presidential Range and Mount Washington Hotel, taken out my car window.
I treated the virtual race just like a normal race; slaving over my wax prep the night before, pulling on my racing uniform, and skiing the 20 kilometers solo as hard as I was capable of. Friend Gillian Kellog, who along with her husband Charlie coached me on the Eastern Junior National Team over 40 years ago, came out to cheer. As Gillian and I skied together afterwards, I was struck by how much the satisfaction derived from a virtual race is similar to a “real” race. Additional satisfaction came a week later when the cumulative results were posted. Only four people skied the course faster than me: three current college racers, and someone who was one of the top college racers in the country 10 years ago.
A couple of weeks later, together with friends Colin and Bob, I competed in a real race: the Walter Chapman 50 Kilometer ski marathon on the sparsely populated Tug Hill plateau in upstate New York. Getting there served up another gorgeous drive, this time through a remote corner of the Adirondaks.
The race course, rolling through dense forest, was made additionally challenging by steady snow that started falling at the start. Again, I skied as hard as I am capable of and felt really good the whole way. This time I didn’t need to wait a week for the results. To my surprise and delight, I won. Not only my age group, but the entire race! Just like Jackson, the post race feeling of satisfaction was gold. Here is a photo of Bob and me after the race, getting ready to hop in our cars and head home, as the snow continued to fall.
This year’s ski racing season hasn’t ended up looking like I thought it would. I have basically trained like a madman in order to ski one virtual race and one marathon. But it has been deeply rewarding. It has also stripped racing down to an existential core: motivation to train hard on a daily basis, a reason to push one’s body to the limit and see how it delivers, and the personal satisfaction that comes from doing both.
I have found one more race to enter, in Maine on March 7. I will give that race all I’ve got and then call it a season, thereafter focusing 100% of my energy on Everest.
Speaking of Everest
The big news is that Everest is looking like it will happen. While China is keeping the north side closed to foreigners, Nepal is tracking to open the south side. Prospective climbers will need to navigate a maze of Covid testing, quarantines, and unique insurance requirements. More importantly, they will have to manage disease risk traveling to Kathmandu, on the 10 day approach trek to base camp, and in base camp itself. Covid is not something you want to experience at the base camp elevation of 17,600 feet, to say nothing of higher on the mountain.
These factors have caused a number of expeditions to cancel their climbs. Judging from climbing permits issued, it appears that roughly half the number of people will be on Everest this year relative to the recent past. This could end up being good news for those that decide to go for it. While overcrowding on the mountain is less of an issue than the press coverage would suggest, it remains a concern, especially in years like 2019 when the weather pattern allowed very few days that the summit could be attempted. (More on this in a future blog post).
The Alpine Ascents expedition I am a part of is going for it. The team consists of seven of the original nine of us who were planning to climb Everest last year. It started to feel real when we gathered on a Zoom call recently with our guides and expedition organizers. In a sign of the times, much of the discussion focused on how we will manage Covid risk. A comment by Todd Burleson, the legendary founder of Alpine Ascents, hit home: “This year, whether you have been able to get vaccinated may be a primary determinant of whether you get a chance to summit.”
Since that Zoom call, I worked every angle imaginable to volunteer at a vaccination center, as I didn’t otherwise qualify and volunteers are given the vaccine. But it turns out that in order to volunteer you need medical experience, which I completely lack. Having exhausted all avenues, I resigned myself to heading to Everest anyway and rolling the Covid dice.
Then lightening struck. Massachusetts modified its rules to allow adults of any age to get vaccinated if they accompany someone over the age of 75. Last weekend, Jill’s 86 year old mother Carolyn and I headed to the vaccination center at Fenway Park, where we both got our shots.
The operation ran like clockwork. Friendly volunteers checked us in, everyone wore masks and maintained respectful distance, and you could sense a collective feeling of relief and gratitude among those in line. It all felt a bit like a dream. When I rolled up my sleeve and a volunteer gave me the shot, a surprise wave of emotion welled up and I said the one thing that came to mind: “thank you so much”. She replied : “Glad to be a part of it. I am a nurse. We like helping people”.
Here is a photo of us in the observation area afterwards. I should note that Carolyn, a loyal reader of this blog, is a very spry 86 year old and typically gets around more than fine without a wheelchair. In this instance, she accepted one when offered.
Driving home, I commented to Carolyn that the whole experience made one feel proud of our government and social institutions. It was a great feeling. However, I am mindful that most people in my age cohort, including Jill, have yet to get the vaccine. I post about my personal good fortune with hesitancy.
Being vaccinated is a game changer for Everest, removing a major variable and worry. Perhaps more importantly, (if the emerging vaccine findings hold up), it reduces the chance I am an agent for spreading the virus in a country with limited health infrastructure.
I am scheduled to fly to Nepal on March 28. Last year, the climb got cancelled two weeks before departure. I am cautiously optimistic that this year is different. Things are coming together.
What an uplifting post! So thrilled you got your vaccine and that plans for Everest are moving along (also very glad you aren’t going un-vaccinated; I would have been very worried). Congrats on your race results!
This post is amazing in so many ways! Congrats on all fronts and good luck on reaching Everest and attaining your goal. The only downside to this post is I feel less good about my one hour on the elliptical trainer downstairs!
French, FABULOUS! 💥 😎
Tom, at the end of the Everest climb, is there a book? I am so interested in your writing about Kathmandu and Pokhara and the people and markets. I hope you get to at least short bio your 9, who is your guide, what is all the gear and clothing you will have, what Nepal is like!
And as one of the not yet vaccinated who is fortunate enough to isolate with secure food and walk in the public garden, I am so happy you have gotten vaccinated! You will be giving back so much by telling us what this quest is like!
Stars are aligning! Good luck favors the well prepared and your WINNING plans confirm that!
Tom, This post is full of pride, gratitude and hope. As always, thanks for taking the time to compose a thoughtful post. I hope this blog along with pictures may become a beautiful coffee table book to enjoy for years to come. Hi to Jill!
I’m reminded again of Sherlock Holmes. When he took a “gap year” (hiding from the world after presumably dying while wrestling Professor Moriarty at the Reichenbach Falls), he did the following during his hiatus:
traveled in Tibet and met the head lama; conductrd remarkable explorations celebrated the world over under the name of a Norwegian named Sigerson; visited Mecca; visited the Khalifa at Khartoum (communicating the results to the British Foreign Office); and researched coal tar derivatives in a lab in France.
Tom French’s gap year is equally impressive-perhaps more so as he is not a fictional character.
The point is: great men of burning ambition, abundant talent and inexhaustible energy will accomplish great deeds no matter the circumstances of their lives. They squeeze every second out of each day.
TF is an exemplar of this. What a gap year! What an inspiration!!
Nice to read an uplifting blog-post from one of my favorite people…I know that you may feel a twinge of remorse about “jumping the queue” for a vaccination, but you should not, as you played well within the rules as set by the Commonwealth of Massachusetts. As ever, I am pulling hard for the stars to align so that you can complete your Everest quest, you deserve it. My own personal “Everest”, a visit to the wreck of the Andrea Doria, now seems very unlikely, given Warren’s age, but perhaps you can join me on my other life-quest: skiing on every continent. I still have Japan, Morocco, Australia and Antarctica to shred… -ghc-
Keep inspiring me/us, young man!! While your “gap year” has been anything like you planned so meticulously, I have no doubt that your accumulated life experiences over the past year will continue to pay true dividends for you and your family forever. Living a bit vicariously through your adventures this past year, you’ve provided us all some really important things to think about in our own lives…so many thanks!
Congratulations across the board Tom! So glad to hear your pursuit of the Everest dream is still a go. I’ll eagerly be watching for updates following March 28th for the continuation of the journey! Hmmm…Nepal arrival on the 29th to get to 29k?! Coincidence or fate!? You got this Tom!
Go, Tom–GO!!! What a smart policy in MA about enabling vaccination for those accompanying eligible persons. Dad received his second vaccination last week but I’m still awaiting my turn with no timeframe indicated thus far…
Francais: we’ll be rooting for you on the 7th ….and all the way to the summit. You are showing us all how to stay young in mind, body and spirit. d+z.
Thomas you clearly took no prisoners on the XC trails, well done! Yours truly Captain Filthy and the B paddle Brethren are beaming with pride for you. Happy to learn that the Everest climb is coming together. You certainly sound prepared and ready to go. Thank you for this all inspiring insight into your Everest quest.
Great read, as always! The drive to the Tug Hill plateau = not so far from my more northern locale here in Canton NY. They do get hammered with snow! The Everest trip is sounding very promising and cannot wait to read the next post after your race in Maine. Fingers and toes crossed for you.
So glad Everest looks like it may come together for you. Eager to read the upcoming blog posts.
Can’t wait to hear more. Congrats on your races and the vaccine —your stars are aligning! Everest, here comes Tom!
Tom – Great post. We will be all cheering for you!!
Best wishes,
Nav
Tom
Loving the physical and spiritual journey. Humbling to follow but learning so much.
Keep it up and looking forward to the moment when you are standing on top of the world!
James
The sense of hope and optimism in your post is something I’ve been starting to feel as well. I’m so glad to hear that Everest is looking good. Awesome!!!
Tom! Wonderful post, a joy to read, and what a vicarious thrill to read about your outstanding race results! Reading your words and thinking of your upcoming quest I am of course reminded of the secret message recently sent to Mars aboard Perseverance . . . Dare Mighty Things. How timely, and how perfectly you. Good luck on your next BIG adventure, and I can’t wait to hear all about it! Be safe, my friend.
Misty – eyed as I read your recent post. What a journey. Climb- on, Tom and friends 💜
Tom, I’m so excited to hear about the progress toward Everest and inspired by your reflections. Thank you. Whether the destination is in the cards or not, and it seems nearly entirely out of your hands at this point, no one could not see this as an amazing journey. Overall winner – forget about age groups. Killing it. But I do REALLY want a picture of you at the top 🙂
I’m with you in spirit my brother. Here’s a little inspiration.
WOW!! Jerry & I just learned about this blog. We are thrilled to live vicariously through your travels. Above all, we are blow away by your determination and passion.
My family has always had a saying before traveling- which we were given by a wise, old, Bequian before he headed off to sea. We send on a “Safe Passage” to you.
We look forward to reading your book and or, seeing a slide show of all of the mountains you have climbed when you return from your Everest adventure.
Enjoy every second of your childhood dream and Safe Passage!!
Big hugs, Kitty & Jerry
P.S. I look forward to many walks this spring with Jill.