I have been at base camp for six days now. All is good, other than the internet access which is highly sporadic and way worse than last year. My inability to communicate semi- regularly with my family has been frustrating.
I spent a good chunk of the past several days writing a detailed blog post, in which I described our trek up to base camp, the individual members of my climbing team, our approach to climbing the mountain this year, and details of what we have been up to recently. I hoped to post it today, but – when I woke up this morning- I found it had vaporized overnight. Gone, and not recoverable. I felt like someone kicked me in various body regions, and I have spent the past several hours getting over my disappointment and frustration.
My conclusion was to resort to “Blog Post Plan B”, a quick and dirty Cliff notes version of what I wrote about in detail. Then to hope I can send it out today before it too vaporizes. So here you go:
- We did the two day trek from Dingboche to base camp in one long day, to avoid exposure to Covid and other potential bugs in crowded tea houses along the way. It was wonderful. I savored every step.
- I have been pleasantly surprised by how great it feels to be back here; both trekking through the Khumbu valley and returning to base camp. Base camp is a beautiful place and holds strong memories.
- I am climbing this year with Expedition Leader Phil Crampton and his “Altitude Junkies” team. Phil is legendary in mountaineering circles and has a unique approach to his expeditions, which are small teams of experienced climbers. He expects you to show up prepared and self sufficient. He also has a wonderfully irreverent sense of humor, is as non-commercial as you could find, and actively avoids publicity and social media.
- The vibe is one of climbing a mountain with close friends. The banter around the dining tent is relaxed and congenial. We share in all aspects of expedition planning, and Phil encourages us to personalize our approach to climbing the mountain. I am loving every bit of it.
- That all said, Phil is ruthlessly organized and the clear leader, with painstaking focus on the details that matter.
- Our team is small and highly experienced. Two other climbers in addition to me: Teemu – a 40 year old Finnish backcountry guide, and Robert- a 60 year old American who has climbed all over the world, summited Everest in 2016, and was the first American to ski off the summit of Manaslu (8th highest mountain in the world ). Plus Phil, plus Sirdar Pasang Ongchu, plus an outstanding Sherpa team who have been with Phil for years.
- I REALLY like the team and our overall approach
- We will head into the icefall tomorrow at midnight to start our first rotation up the mountain. Will climb to some combination of Camps 2 and 3, then return to base camp around May 3.
- Then we will wait for a weather window and go for the summit. In contrast to most teams and to what our team did last year, we will not do a second acclimatization rotation before launching our summit push. Our “two rotation model” instead of three rotations is a big piece of what I wanted to do differently this year. It means less trips through the dangerous icefall and less wear and tear on body and mind before launching the summit bid. Offsetting this is less time spent acclimatizing. You have to believe you are strong and do well at high altitude. Based on my experience last year, I think I can handle it. Also, the week I spent on the Makalu trek between 18,000-20,000 feet should help. Time will tell.
- So far, I am healthy (a big deal on Everest climbs) and feeling strong. But things can change quickly. I will know a lot more after we complete our first rotation
- A few days ago we had our “puja” ceremony, organized by our Sherpa team, in which a lama seeks blessing from the mountain gods to climb the mountain and for safe passage. It turned out the lama who walked three days up the valley to conduct the puja was the same one who blessed our team last year at Pangboche monastery. For some reason, encountering him again, a year later in this remote context, moved me. At the end of the puja he tied around the neck of each team member a small red cord with a hand woven amulet, to keep us safe on the mountain. I hope to wear mine to the summit, and won’t remove it until I am down safely.
- The number of climbers on Everest is down this year. 300 permits issued versus over 400 last year. At least 50 climbers can be expected to head home for various reasons before the summit pushes begin, so it is reasonable to expect around 250 climbers (plus Sherpa support) to be trying for the summit during the month of May. This is a pretty manageable number, especially if the weather cooperates and serves up multiple “weather windows “: days the jet stream moves off the summit so it can be approached.
- Base camp is a special place. Cold nights, clear mornings, avalanches crashing down from surrounding peaks at all hours, glacier on which our tents are pitched creaking and groaning, amazing stars at night. I zip open my tent each morning and have a hard time believing I am here (again).
- Internet willing, I will post an update, in some fashion or other, when we get down from our rotation. Meanwhile, banging this out just now has helped me get over my bad mood this morning when I discovered my detailed post had been lost.
- Continued thanks to all for your interest and support. It means a ton!
Photo of our portion of base camp. Yellow dining tents. Blue personal sleeping tents. Pumori and Lingtren on other side of valley from Everest/Lhotse/Nuptse:
Photo from my tent door; Everest west shoulder and lower Khumbu icefall:
Photo of the lama placing the protection cord and amulet around the neck of one of our climbing Sherpas:
Photo that I posted last year of our route. (I share this courtesy of Alan Arnette, the premier “live” chronicler of climbing on Everest. Those of you who are really into this stuff should check out the “Everest 2022 Coverage” portion of Alan’s blog, in which he posts frequent updates and commentary on what is happening on the mountain):
Good to read your Cliff Notes, Tom. Susan Stott and I visited a few days ago and excitedly talked about following your journey back to Everest. May the health and weather Gods continue to bless you!
Wonderful update Tom. Wish you all the best.
Great update. Don’t let the tech get you down! 🙂 (You worked around it.👍) Sounds like all systems GO.
May the power and beauty of that special place fuel you. Thank you for taking us along in words and images!
So great to read your update! It sounds like quality and brevity are key this year!! Good luck and we will be following you all the way with favorable weather wishes!!
Tom, thwarted by internet connectivity! That’s nothing compared to the resiliency you have demonstrated so far and will in the weeks to come. Love your Cliff Notes and sending thoughts and prayers your way, for you and your entire team.
Let the tech gods throw their worst at you and don’t worry. Just keep weather on your side and good climbing!
It’s Mountain May! Allez Francais.
Appreciate the effort on the Cliff Note. I will take any and all forms of updates!!! Riveting !! Be safe. Be strong.
Love the Ukraine colors of your camp, Tom! And your small group, you being well, and your post to include us on this amazing journey.
It is so great to get this update and know that you are back at it, with a strong team in your spiritual place. Enjoy every day knowing that the doing and the being is the magic of the adventure. Cheering you on from Minnesota. Lisa and Buddy.
I am so excited to be following your blog and sharing it with friends. It is somehow reassuring to know there is a place where one can truly ‘rise above it all’. May the force be with you!
Hey Tom,
Turn your laptop off, wait a couple of minutes, then turn it back on. If that doesn’t work, find a twelve-year-old kid from the nearest village. We don’t want to hear any more of your pathetic excuses regarding technology.
Thanks for the updates and especially the amazing photos. Wishing you good health and good weather, you’ve taken care of everything under your control.
Morty
Shocking that Comcast isn’t the only ISP with erratic service (LOL). Cliff note version is equaling enjoyable. Wishing you many “May” bluebird hiking days. Be well!!
Hoping tech is your only disappointment! Admire your gratitude and appreciation of the small and the great elements of your experience. Nothing taken for granted, you live grounded in each moment and task. Continued blessings, Tom!
Your tone suggests confidence, in yourself and in your team, which is a very good thing. We are all sending positive weather thoughts your way…
So glad to hear the Cliff Notes version, at least… Best of luck with your foray into the icefall, and keep that amulet close!
George & I continue to be mesmerized by your adventurous body, mind and spirit! Your respect for the culture, beauty and challenges of the journey are humbling. Internet not withstanding, we look forward to any/all your posts. Keep ’em coming when you can. Safe journey.
सुरक्षित यात्रा
Allison & George
Nimble posse for the win! Best of luck this year
Hyvä, you have some Suomi 🇫🇮 Sisu with you French! 👍 Now that’s an awesome team! 😉 Onnea!
Forget the technology gods, weather gods are with you!
Namaste! ✌️🌻
Stars are aligned. The tech glitch proves that something has to go wrong so may as well be annoying rather than dangerous.
Love the attention to detail team leader. Chill but on the program.
Lots of good omens. Climb well!
Spent time with Jill yesterday and together we sent you strong vibes for a successful summit!
Amazing Adventure. Love being on the journey. I am sending all safe, healthy vibes your way.
Here’s hoping the tech glitch is your biggest worry of the whole trip! Godspeed, Tom.
Love it Tom. You mentioned feeling great. I have been communicating w/ another climber who has been dealing with severe GI Issues for the last 3 days. Some just don’t take to 17,500+ living. Glad its working out for you. I love the concept of your next push going up to C3 although it will be a mother. Less wear and tear as you know. I wonder if I would have done overall better with less time on the mountain. Will never know. Keep us updated so we can live vicariously through you. God Speed friend..
I can imagine the feeling that hits when one’s work is “vaporized”…and yet a great recovery with Plan B, Cliff Notes version. Thank you for sharing and look forward to hearing about the success of your first rotation!
Thanks for the update, especially given the tech challenges! Thrilled to hear you are happy — your words exude such positive energy — and that you really like the team and the approach. Please concentrate on keeping healthy and strong and enjoying the experience! Godspeed!
Tom-
The ‘Quick & Dirty’ Cliff Notes version was just fine.
Your fan-club readers are keenly aware of your energy, awe, and total prep for this remarkable magic moment of a life time as you prepare to reach the SUMMIT!!!! (Stuff of Dreams)!!
So…..
May the Weather Gods bless you with blue skies & forever vistas…
May the Mountain Gods bless you with sure-footing & safe climbing….
May God bless you Tom as the rest is now up to you!
Thinking about our wonderful evening sail last summer and your decision to go again. And there you are!!
And once again I’m hanging on every word like so many others!
Tom,
Thanks for sending an update on all your activities. Cliff notes are great! May the amulet keep you safe and satisfy the weather gods to enable you to have a successful rotation. Looking forward to your next update!
Martha
Thanks for sharing, i just love reading about your adventures and getting inspiration for my next. Stay warm and safe up there.
Good luck Tom. I hope the gods look favorably on you and your team this year.
I feel the stars aligning.
Great update, Tom. I hope you have your beacon with you for the summit ascent.
Even your “crib notes” surpass most other’s attempts at eloquence! God Speed!!
The empathy of having your work vaporized…painful! But getting to read an experience a bit of this base camp experience is energizing as always. Can’t wait to continue reading along, Tom!
Good thoughts and prayers for you, Tom. Thanks for the update.
Aunt Sally
I too hate it when I lose things I spent time writing to technology but then sometimes feel that the cliff notes rewrite ends up being more succinct and directly on point because of the practice first version.
Good luck with your upcoming rotation to camps 2 & 3 and this new, more expedited approach to the summit. I love your enthusiasm, which I am sure will help you garner all the strength required to achieve the summit. Go get it!
Sounds like a wonderful way to approach – enough overlap with your previous experience along with new and interesting changes – may you have all the sun, winds, and God at your back.
Sounds like a great team, terrific leader, and well-considered plan. What an amazing journey. All the best on the rotation!
Oh God—most of us have been there w that sick feeling when work disappears into the ether—but not at Base Camp! Nevertheless, the Cliff Note version gives a great sense of where you stand; the confidence in the team and plan far outweigh the comm frustrations. Sending my best for clear skies and GI!
All sounds good. Sending you best wishes for the weather window to open for you.