Yesterday morning, we woke up at Camp 2 at 2:00am, tried to stay warm while eating a quick breakfast, then headed back down the mountain to complete our second rotation. As we headed down through the Western Cym to Camp 1, where we stopped for a quick break, the first rays of light hit the surrounding peaks. It was gorgeous. Then we had a smooth trip down through the icefall, encountering few other climbers, and arrived at base camp around 9:00am.
In this post: 1) more details on the second rotation, 2) some macro thoughts on the interplay between weather and “crowds” on Everest, and 3) how we will now approach our summit bid.
DETAILS ON OUR SECOND ROTATION
We pulled out of base camp six days ago at 2:00am and headed up the mountain, (as mentioned previously, in order to minimize avalanche danger we time our passages through the icefall to avoid direct sunlight.) It was a beautiful night and neat to be in the middle of the icefall as first light broke. Our team of five, led by Ben and Jangbu, moved smoothly and confidently.
Having already been through the icefall a couple of times made us quicker in the tricky technical sections, and the fact that we are better acclimatized let us move at a faster pace. We also didn’t experience major bottlenecks in the tight sections as we did in our first rotation. We arrived at Camp 1 around 8:00am, just as direct sunlight started hitting the tents and warming things up.
I can’t resist sharing one vignette. About half way through the icefall we caught up to the team comprised of the Prince of Bahrain and members of his Royal Guard, about 18 in total. They have garnered a lot of press with their high level “diplomacy”, which allowed them to climb another major Himalayan peak, Manaslu, this past fall when most people were having trouble getting climbing permits. Their various dealings also secured them preferred access to an Everest summit bid ahead of most all the other teams currently on the mountain.
As we caught up to Team Bahrain, we could see that they were moving slowly. They also weren’t that strong in the technical sections, and showed no inclination to move aside and let us pass. Passing people almost anywhere on the mountain is tough, as you have to exert a bunch of extra energy and execute some delicate moves to get around them on the fixed ropes. Ben maintained a steady pace and, one by one, our group passed the Bahrain climbers until we were ahead of all of them. They eventually pulled into Camp 1 an hour and a half after we did.
I am shamelessly beating my/our chest. But it speaks to the strength of team relative to many others currently on the mountain, and our ability to move quickly and nimbly. If the Prince and his Royal Guard team can summit, (which they just did yesterday, as we were descending to base camp), then we should be able to as well if we get the right conditions and luck on our side.
Anyway, we spent the night at Camp 1, then moved the next day up the Western Cym to Camp 2, as we did on our first rotation. It really is beautiful up there, although- despite all the pictures making the Cym look level – it is a decidedly uphill haul. Here is a photo of us taking a break in the middle of the Cym. Camp 2 is up at the end of the valley. The Lhotse face is the big wall of snow middle right, and the summit ridge of Everest is rising up to the left.
After two nights at Camp 2, we took on our major objective of the rotation: climbing half way up the Lhotse face to “touch” Camp 3 at 23,500 feet. This was a challenge and thrill on multiple dimensions. First, that altitude is higher than anyone on our team had climbed before, so we were setting new personal milestones, (note: we are still climbing without oxygen). Second, the Lhotse face is legendary; a 4,000 foot wall of 45 degree snow and ice, with ice bulges of 60-70 degrees. You clip into a fixed line with your ascender, (basically a claw device you slide up the rope, that won’t let you slide backwards), and you grind away one breathless step at a time.
Here is a photo I took looking straight up as I followed Ben up the face:
And here is another photo of Thomas and Josh emerging over the top of an ice bulge, just below Camp 3. If you zoom in you can see the tents of Camp 2 down in the dark rocky moraine on the right side of the Cym. Camp 1 is located way down at the bottom of the Cym, just before the icefall drops steeply out of sight down to the Khumbu valley floor.
As I did on the whole second rotation, I felt strong. Definitely working hard and gasping for air in the tough sections, but feeling less maxed out than I did on the first rotation. A lot of this is due to being better acclimatized,(the rotation process is working!), and also perhaps to having put my stomach bug behind me. Overall, the whole rotation was more pleasant and satisfying, and more akin to what I have enjoyed on other mountains. That said, the “pain to immediate pleasure” ratio on Everest remains uniquely skewed.
We sat up at Camp 3 for a while enjoying the views, then rapelled back down the Lhotse face, over the bergschrund, and walked the rest of the way back to Camp 2. After a short night there, we were up at 2am, as previously described, to return here to basecamp.
Here is a photo of Chase in the icefall on our descent, rappelling down into one of the “ice ravines” while two ascending climbers navigate some ladders in parallel. This was one of the few places we encountered other climbers during our return to basecamp.
So we are safely back at basecamp, having completed two of our three rotations, and four of the six trips we will ultimately make through the icefall. We now have our sights set on the summit, and it all comes down to the weather.
OF WEATHER AND CROWDS
A lot has been written about crowds on Everest. A photo taken in 2019, which went viral, of a long line of climbers on the summit ridge, has further convinced much of the world that “traffic jams” are commonplace. The reality is a bit more nuanced, and an understanding of the macro weather patterns on the mountain may be helpful.
The summit of Everest, at a bit over 29,000 feet, sticks up into the jet stream. For much of the year, the jet blows directly across it and winds of 100mph and above make the summit unapproachable. Then, every year in May, like clockwork, the approaching Indian monsoon nudges the jet stream off of Everest’s summit and the winds drop. This is why May is when the vast majority of Everest summit attempts occur.
Actually, the jet “wobbles” off and on the summit during the month of May. The days it is off are “summit days”; when climbing to the summit of the mountain can be attempted. These are referred to as “weather windows”. In an average season, there are roughly eight such days. In some years there are more: as many as twelve. In other years, there are way less. In the years that there are way less, all the climbers on the mountain are forced to try for the summit on the same few available days.
This is what happened in 2019; a year in which there were two summit days early in the month, then a very tight window of only three more summit days later in the month. The vast majority of climbers on the mountain all attempted the summit in the same compressed three day window. Sitting at home watching the weather forecasts, you could see what was about to happen. It was like a train wreck in slow motion.
Even so, 2019 wasn’t nearly as bad as the viral photo suggests. That photo was taken on the first of the three days, when the most climbers went for the summit, and also at the peak time: the couple of hours out of the entire day when the summit ridge was most jammed. I know climbers personally who summited on all three of the days in the 2019 weather window. Their experience, while not ideal, was largely nothing like the photo suggests.
That said, getting caught in a climber traffic jam high on Everest remains a real concern, especially as the summit ridge is a knife edge with extremely limited room to pass. While the number of climbers on Everest remains less than half the number who attempt Denali every year, and a minute fraction of those who climb mountains like Mont Blanc, the numbers have been growing notably. More alarmingly, many of the newer additions are weaker climbers, accompanied by weaker guides, who lack the awareness and ability to turn their clients around when called for.
Alarmed by what happened in 2019, I spoke with multiple people who were on the mountain that year, and extensively researched ways I could potentially avoid getting caught in such a situation. I concluded several things. First, your biggest friend is catching a good weather year; with an average or greater than average number of potential summit days. That alone goes a long ways toward reducing the risk.
Beyond catching a good weather year, there are a couple of other potential strategies for reducing crowd risk. One is to “go early “: arrive as early as possible on the mountain, start your rotations ahead of the bulk of climbers, potentially compress the number of rotations and sacrifice some acclimatization, and go for the summit on the first available summit days before most other teams are ready. A second strategy is to “go late”: patiently wait while other teams attempt the summit, and hope that you catch a weather window late in the month when most people are down off the mountain. This strategy doesn’t always work, as some years the late weather window fails to materialize, but in some years it works very well.
Our Expedition Leader, Ben Jones, is a committed believer in the “go late” strategy. This was a major component of my decision to climb with him. As mentioned, in some years it doesn’t work, but in many years it has worked very well. In 2018, for example, Ben and his team summited Everest on a late May day with only one other small team on the upper mountain. They had the entire summit ridge and summit to themselves. This would be my dream scenario.
OUR SUMMIT BID
We are now fully acclimatized. After a couple of days of rest, we will be ready to head for the summit as soon as an attractive weather window presents itself. From the moment we leave base camp and start heading up, it should take us around five days to reach the summit.
It is too early to tell what kind of weather year this is. An initial two day weather window just occurred, while we were completing our second rotation, and a number of teams just summited. The weather forecast calls for the jet stream to move back onto the summit starting today, creating heavy winds through at least May 18 and more likely May 20. While forecasts can change, it is likely that no one will summit until then. The big question is what happens after May 20. Will we get a compressed weather window with only one or two summit days, or – hopefully – a wider weather window and multiple potential summit days?
In any case, the monsoon will arrive as usual right at the end of May, bringing heavy snow to the mountain and abruptly shutting down the climbing season. Whatever happens has to happen by the end of the month. It is clear that, the moment a weather window opens, a rush of teams will leave base camp heading for the summit. Our “be patient/go late” strategy will dictate that, if possible, we calmly sit back and watch them go, targeting a later summit window if the forecast suggests that one may exist. We are prepared to wait if necessary right up to the last possible day to summit, which would be one of the last days of May or even June 1. Hopefully we get to try for the summit earlier than that, perhaps something in the May 22 – May 26 timeframe. We will soon see. At this point, it is all up to the weather gods.
In some ways, the next week or so may be the most mentally challenging period of the expedition. We have done all our prep and are ready to go. We know we are stronger than a number of teams that have already summited. Now we have to wait, be patient, and hope that the weather gods are on our side.
A final vignette, (again, I can’t resist). As I sat in our dining tent today writing this, a series of helicopters flew sorties up above the icefall, disappeared from sight, and then eventually returned to base camp. At first we didn’t know what was happening, then we learned. Apparently the Bahrain Prince and his Royal Guard team, having summited yesterday and returned to Camp 2, decided that they weren’t up for descending from there under their own power. So they summoned – and paid for – helicopters, typically reserved for rescues or drops of crucial supplies, and took the quick way down. Until very recently, any helicopter landing above the icefall was viewed as heroic and highly risky. It remains very challenging, but the performance of the choppers and skills of the pilots have evolved dramatically. Still, this was highly unusual.
With apologies for closing on a snarky note, if you find yourself in Bahrain in the coming days and encounter any victory parades, know that at least one humble Everest 2021 climber views the summit being celebrated as having a major asterisk next to it.
On a more uplifting topic, heartfelt thanks for your continued encouragement and support. I know I am repeating myself, but it really, really makes a difference. I am eternally grateful, to each and every one of you.
Ever upward!
Tom – As always, fantastic commentary and beautifully written. May the weather gods be with you. Look forward to the next installment!
Like everyone here, I eagerly await your updates, Tom, and so appreciate the front row seat and inside line. Learning about the jet stream, weather windows, and the timing of summit bids is especially interesting.
And, what a story about the Bharainians commandeering choppers down! Will leave it there.
We are all behind you and your team, Tom. Warmly, Amy
Tom-fingers crossed for a. favorable weather window for your group. Wonderful reporting and photos. Lots of luck and good karma. Wow!!
Soo and Sam B
Tom –
We love reading about your Adventure of a lifetime . We will pray for the weather gods to bring you your much anticipated window, a safe climb and a safe descent.
Your preparation has been superb and your confidence in the entire team is palpable. Also, I am heartened that acclimatization has kicked in and you feel strong enough to “enjoy” the effort. Good luck with the weather window.
Tom, I continue to appreciate the time you take to send us such detailed accounts of your ascent on Everest. I read and often reread the details. You’ve clearly done the work to make the summit. Now it’s up to the heavens to give you that weather window!
Tom best of luck in your summit attempt. Your posts are giving all of us a rare insight into a world that we will never experience. You always share a very balanced perspective!
Tom your posts continue to give us an insight into a world that few get to see. Good luck on the summit attempt, we will await word of your success and safe return.
At least three members of your home-based support team seem to be getting up early in anticipation of your next blog post! They (the posts) are that good. May the weather gods be with you. Allez.
In some ways I l like I am there with you reading these posts. Hope the weather days cooperate for your summit 🙏
All the best. Thanks for letting us know you are doing well. Hope you have a big weather window.
I will keep my fingers crossed for a long and safe weather window. It sounds like you and your team are strong and ready to go. I loved the inside scoop on the Bahrain Prince and the Royal Guard. We will be thinking about you and your team in the coming days. Stay safe.
Tom
Love the update- you are clearly getting stronger as the process goes along. As we all knew you would.
Thanks for sharing it all with us
Love you man
Tom, love the vignettes…keep those coming. Sending good wishes your way for a large late weather window and for having the summit to yourselves!!
Your personal story on Everest is enchanting. I look forward eagerly to each new post. Like all our outdoor pursuits we are at the mercy of the weather, dramatically so for you.. We are all rooting for you.
You got this!!!!
Thank you Tom for including me in this adventure. I am thrilled for you. Sending energy to the weather Gods to keep the Jet off the summit. Can’t wait to hear more.
I like the “go late”plan. Fingers are crossed 🤞 the weather gods cooperate. Earlier this week on a Zoom call I used your example of the importance of interim goals (in reference to your last post). I’ll be thinking about you and your team.
Tom,
Congratulations on achieving a new P.R. in terms of elevation. Your planning, conscientious training and thoughtful selection of guides made the second rotation seem almost routine. it is clear that you and your teammates have done everything within your control to prepare for the summit attempt. Everyone who is following your blog is sending you positive thoughts for that ideal weather window.
Best wishes, Morty
Incredible. I love climbing Everest with you – that’s the effect your dispatches have on me. I read
that China limited access to their Everest route, and will partition the summit, all to limit the local Covid outbreak. You’ve had some unfortunate experience with that already. Finally, I’ve offered up my prayers to placate the weather gods. I’m confident that they’ll be answered positively. Go Frenchie!
Tom French writes better and clearer prose in a wind-blown tent at high altitude/low oxygen than the rest of us from a comfy sofa at sea level! Wow! Keeping you in thoughts and prayers. BM
You are Brave but clearly NOT stupid. Go late and go strong brother.
We are all with you and we agree – you don’t need no stinking helicopter. Can’t wait for the next update. Be safe.
Fingers crossed on the window, and hope you get exactly what you’re planning for. You will be happy to know that I have been reading your blogs to my 7yr old daughter, Margot. She is totally hooked into the story and asks me every morning if I have gotten another post from my friend……..she was so pumped to hear we got one this morning, and is looking forward to me reading it tonight.
Best of luck Frenchy……..I truly hope it’s everything you wanted out of this adventure. It’s incredible to feel like I’m a part of it!!! Best, Alex
Reading your blogs is the most exciting event in our week! Your narrative and photos really show what it’s like. Sounds like you are in great shape for a successful summit.
so exciting! Your posts are the first thing I read when they appear. Positive thoughts for the best WX possible!
I am in awe of this accomplishment and detail. Already higher than you’ve ever been! Could you discuss what in mountaineering where summit is the goal but if you don’t summit you have still climbed higher than ever? Did the Prince of Bahrain helo his sherpas off too? Will you summit in the dark? How do they measure the winds, is it accurate? What is the wind when not in the jet stream?
Hilary and Tenzing summited on May 29, 1953. So satisfying if you get to go on that date.
Ahem…what is the garbage situation the news talks about?
This makes me so happy.
Love,
Susan
Love reading all the details and realizing how well you now know those routes over the ice fall and up the Lhotse Face. Cheering for you all the way and wishing for the perfect window for your summit attempt! Gillian
Thanks Tom, as always, for your update this morning! I have to admit I feel a great relief knowing you and the team have completed a successful 2nd rotation… what a thrill! I guess Jill is used to your adventures by now!
Hoping for the perfect weather window and a fantastic conclusion to a captivating story. Keep the news flowing…we love the updates.
Onward and upward! Stay safe, be strong! Good luck!
Hi Tom, Love readying your blog. Getting a real good sense of what you are going through. I am praying for a good weather window for your summit attempt and can not wait to read you next post.
Cheers,
Bix
You got this TF! All signs point to ‘Go for the Summit!’ Praying with everyone that the weather Gods cooperate! Love the photos – you have taken me to the Top Of The World!
Can’t wait for the next post.
Be well my friend and we will miss you at Quadrangles!
-HTR
Tom,
Trust your team, trust your preparation , weather window here we come! I’m reading great momentum for a summit for you and your team. Good luck, stay safe
Best CF
Dear Tom, your “Prince of Bahrain” story reminded me of when my kids and I trekked to Annapurna Base Camp. As we were within a day or two of our goal we began to see helicopters flying overhead. We were fearful–had there been an avalanche or other disaster? Were people being evacuated? Turns out, tourists had figured out they could bypass the 8 or so days roundtrip of strenuous hiking and instead hop a flight to Base Camp where a “mock tent” set up awaited them for selfies and Instagram posts. It was hilarious, albeit a bit frustrating, to be surrounded by droves of people in Chanel backpacks and Louis Vuitton boots. A kinder voice inside of me said, at least they are appreciating the outdoors and supporting the Nepalese economy–maybe? Here’s hoping the weather gods smile upon you and that you get a wide open Summit window! Cheering you on from my comfy armchair in SF…XOXO
Tomas!
Vlatka and I have read your wonderful posts with enthusiasm and have cheered for you in between. Having trained together for years and seen your strength and level of preparation firsthand, there is no doubt in my mind that, weather permitting, you will soon be atop Everest! Stay safe and stay well. We look forward to drinking a toast this summer to you and to adventures: old, current, and to be planned!
All the best, Johnny
Hi Tom – I can’t be more tickled to be a witness to your journey! This blog gets me inspired every time a post appears and I really appreciate you keeping us all apprised of your journey, as well as your thoughts along the way. As you mention the Prince of Bahrain and the feather in your cap about being a part of a team strong enough to surpass them, it brings back the memory of passing through a “bob” of Seals on our ascent on Aconcagua! To this day, it’s a small point of pride that I am able to embellish the story of our parallel journey with.
As you patiently (and no doubt, eagerly) await for the winds to ever so slightly shift off the summit, may your time be full of memories that stick with you forever, your bowels be clear of anything that sticks with you for too long, and your inner child from back in the mountaineering store prepare itself for the inevitable successful (both ways) summit day!
All the best Tom – Joey
Hard for the Nepalese to turn down the revenue from the “Helicopter Set”, as ignoble a practice as it is. I remember the first time my dog and I climbed the Hellbrook on Mt. Mansfield only to find picnickers on the summit who used the adjacent auto road (my dog loved the free sandwiches they provided) I also chuckle when I see “This Car Climbed Mt. Washington” bumper stickers, remembering times that we climbed to the summit and skied all the way back down. Maybe the AMC should sell t-shirts that say: “I Don’t Need A @#$%&* Car To Climb Mt. Washington!” You have a solid team and you have a good plan. The photos you have shared so far also seem to indicate that the wind has been manageable. May fair weather stay with you… -ghc-
Tom, I will cover 3 items in my reply: 1) I love that you led the blog letting us know the three ‘majors’ to ensue – cue chuckling; 2) Your photos are breathtaking, but your prose even more so; and 3) Trey and I are hoping your weather window is as wide as possible and your ascent as smooth as possible. Thank you for letting us live vicariously through you!
P.s. my dad was a helicopter pilot. I can hear his words in my head – interspersed with quite salty phrases – describing what he’d think about these “sorties”, despite the financial boon to deserving people.
Thanks for another incredible update Mr. French! So cool being along for the climb and now summit!
Sending good vibes to the weather gods for that May 22-26 weather window with a summit on May 24- which is a good luck day I know really well! 😉
Beyond exciting!
Namaste! ✌️🙏
Tom
What an incredible adventure! You had us worried a couple of weeks back as we patiently awaited your blog update! They are always beyond fascinating to read but scares the h*ll out of me as I try to imagine what the experience must be like! So very proud of you and thrilled you are getting to fulfill one of your life dreams!! My Prayers are continually for you🙏🏻 And your team!
You sitting on the mountain in your orange? tent writing great prose with the helicopter long gone. You are about to launch to the highest point of this planet and we get to be jammed in your backpack. How lucky are we and how brave and strong you.
Tom. We eagerly await your blog posts and they never disappoint. I can say for everyone who commented here—we are all praying to the weather gods for you to get that window! You inspire us all in so many ways. Looking forward to a slide show on the back end of this most incredible journey. Godspeed and lots of love.
Your blog is riveting, Tom. Very good content coupled with great writing.
Just one more lap . . . 😉
Continued strength, savvy decision-making, and . . . safe passage.
Another great post, Prince Tom of Dover. Hope your great team gets the weather window you deserve, and complete this most excellent experience with no asterisk!
Tremendous effort and accomplishment.
What a wonderful, vivid description, Tom. We feel we are climbing Everest with you. Hope the weather comes through for you.
Tom….Chris and I have been following every word…I check often for your updates and, only from my armchair, am familiar with the major named stages of the climb and topography . Thank you for the rich detail and amazing pictures. Wishing you continued progress and good fortune. Harriet.
Hey, hey Tigah, best of luck on the final push! Seems like only bad weather could stop you now. All the best, YM
I am praying to the weather and health and luck gods on your and your team’s behalf. Love that as always you are making this endeavor both a team and personal sport. Hope the days breathing the “thick” air at base camp are rejuvenating and not too trying as you wait for the right window to Summit. Thank you for sharing your adventure with us!
The adventure continues! Love reading your blog Tom–we’re all right there with you! Glad to hear you and the team are feeling strong and ready for the big push. I’m sure waiting for your window is no fun, but hopefully your patience will pay off with a smooth, less crowded trip up.
Go for it, and get back down safely!
Go get’em!! Sounds like you couldn’t be more well prepared…physically and mentally!
so climbing the Caucasus mountains will be easy after this… 😉
Truly amazing, Tom. And it feels like we’re right there with you, between the crisp writing and spectacular photos. Here’s to a good weather window for you and your team!
Love your thoughtful and entertaining updates, and find the climbing backdrop and details quite interesting. All of that surpassed, of course, by the knowledge that a good friend is undergoing some very challenging (understatement) experiences to fulfill a life’s dream – and that is especially cool and remarkable. We are thinking of you daily, and have all fingers crossed for a good weather window in the coming weeks and continued good health and spirits. Go get’em Frenchie!
This is amazing, Tom! I’ll dedicate my yoga/meditation practice to the weather gods working in your favor and to your safe passage. Manifest a perfect summiting experience, I know it’s coming!!
Tom,
I finally found my way here and spent hours catching up on your epic adventure. I’m on the edge of my seat checking frequently for updates. You got this!
Andrew from Aconcagua
Tom – great that you and your team are physically and mentally strong and cohesive. Wishing all of you continued fortitude and favorable conditions for the final ascent!
PS – I hope the Prince of Bahrain made a hefty contribution to Nepal’s COVID-19 response in addition to paying for those helicopters.
As always – Loved the read and the photos. Cheering for several weather windows so that you and (all others on the mountain) can experience a hard fought dream come true.
Hey Tom–I just discovered this blog after Louise, the more FB-active half of our marriage, turned me onto it. Your physical accomplishments are amazing. (And humbling. We hike Mt. Liberty in NH today, and I was excited that we covered 4,000+ vertical.) But I’ve got to say that I enjoy your writing style. I’m a crank about the tremendous decline in the quality of public written communication–web sites, blogs, news sites–by people paid to write well. Well, you do. Another benefit of a PA/DC/HBS/McKinsey education. Keep it coming! Also, I’m excited to be able to casually mention to friends and family that “this friend of mine and ex-roomie” is on Everest and looking good. It’s right up there with winning a Medal of Honor or being an astronaut. Only problem — what the hell do you do for an encore?
Be safe, be well, and hopes that Jill is breathing easier than you are (she has all the oxygen she’s supposed to get).
Best of luck with the weather. You have got this, one step at a time. I am so impressed! Nads
Tom I can hardly describe how much I look forward to reading each post. I dwell on almost every sentence and try to imagine what it must be like. Truly awe-inspiring.
Tom – It has been captivating and uplifting to be transported virtually along your long journey. It has been mesmerizing to read such adventurous clarity of thought and awe inspiring to have you share your dream with such captivating images! What a team! Godspeed and joy to TH from DB – today! 👐