After three days of R&R at basecamp, we leave early tomorrow morning on our second rotation. We will climb through the icefall to Camp 1, spent the night, climb through the Western Cym to Camp 2, spend a night and day, then climb up the Lhotse face to Camp 3. We will “touch” Camp 3, (ie not spend the night), return back down the Lhotse face to Camp 2, spend the night there, then return to base camp the following day.
If all stays on schedule, we will be back in base camp on May 11. The next time we head up the mountain, we will be heading for the summit.
The past three days have been restorative. It is remarkable how thick the air can feel at 17,500 feet. Our appetites are back, and we savor moments of pure relaxation, like sipping a cup of coffee in the warm dining tent, or lying in our personal tents reading a book or listening to music. As an added bonus, the three day snow storm that was initially forecast morphed into three days of snow showers, clouds, and occasional breaks of sun.
During these days, I have been thinking a lot about the concept of intermediate goals. Jessie Diggins, one of the top cross country ski racers in the world, has described how she is able to maintain her brutally demanding pace up the long, steep uphills of the World Cup circuit. She picks out an intermediate target, like a tree or a trail sign ahead, and knows she can maintain her pace at least to that point. Then, when she gets there, she picks a new target and re-focuses her energy on maintaining her pace to there. And so on.
This concept is hugely relevant on Everest, where a big part of the battle is maintaining energy and focus over a multi-month period. As an example, virtually all of my attention right now is channeled on simply completing the second rotation.
The highest elevation I have ever been at is the summit of Aconcagua at 22,800 feet. Camp 3 on Everest is at 23,500 feet, and to get there I will have to ascend over 1,000 feet of steep climbing up the Lhotse face. I am thinking of the next five days as a “climb within a climb”, a mini expedition to 23,500 feet and back. That’s all that matters at the moment. When I get back to base camp, I will re-set and start focusing on the summit. Not surprisingly, when we discussed the upcoming rotation over dinner last night, all five team members were thinking about it in virtually identical terms.
Speaking of our team, a neat thing has happened over the past several days. An already strong team is getting stronger. Part of this is the five of us assessing our recently re-set team configuration and liking what we have. With no offense to Mark and Bob, experienced climbers who we all like and respect, our remaining group is more similar in strength and very well suited to move up the mountain together as a tight unit.
Ben and Jangbu confirm this, and Ben in particular is sparing with direct praise and is brutally honest, sometimes to the point of individual discomfort. Both say that we five are an extremely strong climbing team. To that, I would add – as I have noted previously- that in Ben, Jangbu, and Lakpa Rita, we are led by as strong a guide/leadership team as exists on the mountain.
Another powerful team dynamic is also at play. Having been together for over a month, and having just completed the first rotation, people are letting down some of their “invisible shields”. We are opening up about things we have been quietly anxious about, and realizing that we no longer need to prove our individual strength to each other. Also, we are increasingly defining collective rather than individual success as our overarching goal, something easier said than done in this environment.
Commercial Everest expeditions are full of exceptionally goal oriented individuals with alpha profiles, who frequently haven’t even met each other before showing up in Kathmandu. There are lots of reasons why these expeditions can have strained team dynamics, sometimes to the point of completely lacking a team ethos. Our team is moving in the opposite direction, which is wonderful. It is also a source of real strength.
In addition to being a great mountaineering guide, Ben is also a gifted photographer. Yesterday, he took advantage of the cloudy conditions and created an ad hoc photo studio in our dining tent. I thought you might like to see the individual team member photos he took. (NOTE: for those of you who haven’t committed every word of my writing to memory, you will find in my April 23 post, “Into the icefall “, a short description of each team member: https://tdfrenchgapyear.com/into-the-icefall/ )
OUR TEAM
Ben Jones (Expedition Leader and Guide):
Jangbu Sherpa (Guide):
Lakpa Rita Sherpa ( Expedition Sirdar):
Josh:
Tony:
Chase:
Thomas:
Yours Truly:
ONWARD AND UPWARD
Tomorrow in the early morning hours, we will switch on our headlamps and head back into the icefall. I will check in upon our return to basecamp, around May 11.
Namaste to all!
safe climbing and God bless.
Love the beard!!
Phenomenal photos, inspiring individually and collectively. Go Team GO!!!
Love reading about how well your group has come together as another “Dream Team” and I can feel the rejuvenation in your text. Onwards and upwards. All the Best!!
Do you always climb in the dark? What time of day do you expect to summit? And the photographs! The smiles!
Go get them Frenchie! Good to know the last three day reset has bonded the smaller team. You’ve given us and up close sense of the experience and the mindset required. Your posts have been riveting.
So good to see your face! Can’t wait for the next update…good luck on the “climb within the climb”! Love.
Awesome!
Thanks for the latest update, Tom, and also for the photos. I’m glad the team dynamics are positive. Take good care up there and enjoy it (despite the hard work)…
Go get ‘em Frenchie! Good to hear the three day reset has bonded the smaller team. Your detailed descriptions and insight into the mindset of the climber are riveting. Namaste.
You looks happy bro, Best wishes Tom.
Love the positivity and focus!!!
You’re all in our thoughts.
Onward and upward!
Sounds like a picnic, except for the FIO2 10%, no espresso, – 30 degree wind chill, no watermelon but all on track for success. I think the training started about 62 yrs ago.
So, first of all, I just want to be Chase.
Second, with the beard (and a little bit of an emaciated photo) you are looking a little something like Shackelton.
Finally, and as I have said several times before: “The mountain doesn’t care if you summit. We all so absolutely care that you make it back home.”
Can’t help but think each expression in those photos reveals a certain amount of personality in each. That you are not all serious or all smiling is interesting. Your team leader shows calm confidence and responsibility. Sherpas have rigid, almost mean determination and jaunty love of life. The younger guys have something between “This mountain can’t beat me” to “I’m too young to know how freakin nuts this is”. And finally the geezers – exhuding the pure joy of being in a position long worked for, longer dreamed of, and now within striking distance.
That looks like the kind of team you want to be on and one that will be remembered and cherished with the best of your life.
Yes, we are hanging on every word. My heart pumps faster each time I open your blog. Your team is the ’01 Patriots of Everest (the team that forwent individual introductions, and won a stunning upset super bowl with a rookie QB).
Namaste, Tom. Blessings and much love to you and all of you. You are in our active thoughts.
zmb
Read you on the 11th Frenchy…………be safe and continue to embrace the challenge as you have done so already!!!
Safe climbing & stay focused! This is now where all the many hours, days & months of training will pay dividends!
Go get’m Tom!👍👍🙏🏻🙏🏻
While your climbing team definitely seems to be pulling itself together at the right time, your other team back here in Brookline is collectively following your progress and hanging on every word of your highly descriptive prose…you are our brother and we are all with you…go with God… -ghc-
Love your small, awesome, tight, strong and committed team. Thanks so much for sharing your journey. Onwards!
Great job, Tom, keep up the good effort!
Slow and steady up on the face and remember to look up and take it all in!
What a great dynamic to have, the strength of a team that pulls for one another, sounds like a team we both know. Such insightful pictures of the team, they tell a story by themselves. Keep your head on a swivel, stay in the present, we’re all thinking of you and wishing you a safe return back to this home base.
Go get ’em Tom! What a feeling it will be to climb the iconic Lhotse Face. Enjoy every minute, even the suffering!
Sounds like you’re in rare air with five driven and incredibly capable people who are realizing what they can do as a team, coupled with the best support team in the business. There’s nothing y’all can’t accomplish staying together. God bless!
i am vicariously enjoying your adventure.
Congrats French! What a team!
Looking forward to the May 11th post!
Godspeed and Namaste to all! ✌️
Thanks for the photos. Reread the bios of a talented disciplined team. If any group can all successfully Summit, it’s this amazing team.
Francais: people seem to know that some sports are 90% governed between the ears. Team sports ….not so much. But anyone who has played a team sport and been lifted to an extraordinary result by the force of the team’s spirit will appreciate what is happening with you on Everest. And your extended team is with you too.
Group dynamics with a collaborative spirit boosts that courage you all have up there. Keep on truckin’ Tom!
With admiration and love,
Christy
Hey Everest Boy,
I did 7000 steps one day last week. Beat that!
Awesome pics. Can’t wait for next update.
Be safe! Namaste.
Love, love the post, the pictures, and your posse! Sending positive vibes! I am so inspired!
Lisa
Thank you for all of this Tom. So inspirational and exciting as you head up towards three and four.
Standing by.
You could write a business case study on group dynamics. Everest is an awesome incredible crucible. Best, Bob M
Thank you Tom! I’ve never cared so much about what was happening on Everest. Can’t wait for your next post. I would usually say “Go fast, take chances”, but in this case, “Go slowly, pay attention, and suck on some oxygen if you need it”.
Strength and safe passage on “ . . . the climb within the climb”. Eager to read your next update.
As I cast my fly line for bonefish on Abaco
Island and see the beauty of our creator here at 0 elevation, it blows me away that you are soon to be just shy of 6 miles higher than me. Extraordinary what this planet offers us at all levels. Your blogs are a reminder to all of us to take this natural world seriously and be respectful of what many of us tend to take for granted.
Our thoughts follow your progress and wonderful team dynamic. Onward safely.
Fantastic to hear the team is really building and forming around a group goal. Impressive. You’ve given me food for thought around interim goals…. Stay safe.
So exciting Tom! Awesome perspective and great to follow along. Can’t wait to hear more.
Jessie got Gold! I’m predicting….You’ll get the summit with a cohesive team. Awesome. Keep up that teamwork and growth. Love hearing it.
Stay strong, focused and have fun!
I love the idea of touching Camp 3 as just being an intermediate goal. Great writing, Tom! Thanks for including all of us in your incredible expedition. Stay safe.
Truly inspirational Tom, at so many levels. Thinking of you and your team a few miles up. Go get’em!
Wow Tom. Absolutely amazing. All great thoughts and great success.
So glad to have found your blog again Tom. Somehow, I got dropped from your email update list but would love to rejoin and follow the remainder of your adventure of a lifetime! I have goosebumps imagining you WAY up there living your dream! Look forward to hearing all about it when you return! Sarah
“He who climbs upon the highest mountains laughs at all tragedies, real or imaginary.” – Friedrich Nietzsche
This is your moment. Sip it in and savor the hard. The hard is where there is so much good. Be safe and Godspeed. Can’t wait for the victory shot!